Anti-aging Skincare Simplified, by Dora.

Interviewing skincare expert.

Pharmacist, chemist, nutritionist, and skincare specialist, Dora has given her advice to the Lakewood community for over twenty years. Today we're focusing on one of the main areas of Dora's expertise – anti-aging skincare. At what age anti-aging skincare becomes a necessity?

If you notice that your skin displays aging signs and is falling, it may be relevant at any age, but it rarely happens before 27. By 27, I insist on using anti-aging technologies.

So, when I turn 27, where do I begin? First of all, it's important to distinguish between light-weight anti-aging products and heavy-duty ones. Generally, you don't want heavy-duty stuff when light-weight alternatives can help. Why not? Why not attack age with all the power that we have at our disposal? If you use heavy-duty anti-aging action when you are too young, it will no longer be useful when you are 60 or 70. What's the difference between light-weight and heavy-duty approach?

"Light-weight" means that we help your skin just a little bit, and it does the rest by itself. "Heavy-duty" means that we help your skin a lot, as it can't do much by itself.

I don't want to get into biochemistry here, but one good example is that light-weight may stimulate the skin to generate some molecule structures. Heavy-duty will primarily pump in those structures into the skin, as the skin can no longer make them on its own.

Even though it takes a professional to determine the necessary level of anti-aging effort, it's safe to make an assumption based on age. Let's begin from 27, and I'll give you the stages based on age groups.

But I'd like to make a small introduction. It's essential to understand the heart of anti-aging magic. A unique technology that makes anti-aging "magic" possible is a serum. Serum is different from any other skincare product in a way that it's capable of "inside" work - it penetrates the walls and works inside the cells. In this sense, the anti-aging of a few decades ago was different, as it made skin look younger by hiding aging signs. Now, thanks to serums, the skin becomes younger. All other skincare products are either helping anti-aging serums to do their work or provide secondary, complementary action. All other skincare products should be just right, but serums must be exceptional, superior.

Let me guess: earlier, I asked, if I turn 27, where do I begin, so the answer is probably SERUM?

Well, yes and no. Let me explain "no" first.

When you're 27, the changes to your skincare regimen are two-fold: first, you add one new product - serum. Second, some of the products you've used until now need an upgrade.

Okay, let's talk about these two changes, one at a time. The first change is a new product - serum. Yes. There are two light-weight anti-aging serums that we can use:
. You use this serum twice a day, right before you put on your day or night cream.
So, at 27, you would give me these two serums? I would give you one serum only. That is to say, one at a time. When you get older, it may be a great idea to use different serums for day and night, but in the beginning it's unnecessary. Which one of the two? How do I know which of the two is better for me?

Now it's time for another introduction.

As we age, a lot is happening in the skin. It's worth mentioning some changes.

Cells divide slower. Skin becomes thin and fragile. Less oil is produced. The skin becomes dry. Age spots and wrinkles develop. Collagen and elastin production slows down. Elasticity, tone, and texture are affected. The fat layer is lost. Bags under eyes are formed. Blood vessels become fragile. Broken capillaries and bleeding lead to redness. Changes in bone and muscles make skin saggy. And more.

Each serum has a specific mechanism of action and addresses certain flaws. One serum does not - and can not solve more than a particular issue. Thus, it would be best if you always alternated serums. Alternating means that you can use one for a few months, but once it's over - get another one. You'll achieve fuller results, making your skin younger in all possible ways.

To answer your question, it doesn't matter whether you begin from collagen serum or hyaluronic acid serum. Pick any and alternate. It's a synergetic solution for the restoration of tired, degraded, thirsty skin.

So, at 27, you would add one light-weight anti-aging serum. But you also mentioned that some products need to be upgraded - what are they?

Your moisturizers. Ideally, you've already used day cream and night cream. Now, these creams need to be replaced by their anti-aging counterparts. Night cream becomes
until 35 and
for 35+. Day cream becomes
until 35 and
for 35+.

Until 35Mutl-PeptideCollagen Boi-Hydrating
After 35HydroguardBio-Restorative

Okay, now, with upgraded moisturizers and an anti-aging serum, I'm fully set – but for how long until I need something else? I would say until you're 30. Now it's time to add
and a masque -
. If you have large pores, you can alternate the masque with
. Use one masque for a few months, and once it's over, get the other one. But if you don't have larger pores, just one masque - Skin Revitalizing Souffle - should be enough. Masque is used once a week, after a scrub, if a scrub is a part of your routine (it should be!)
So, what do the eye serum and the masque do for me? The skin under the eyes is very delicate and has its unique issues. Eye serum primarily helps with puffy eyes and dark circles. I want to emphasize: we're talking about eye serum, not an eye cream. You can wait another few years until you start using eye cream, as it will focus on wrinkles. To anticipate your next question, some years later, when you begin to observe lines, you need to add the eye cream -

As for masque, we need another introduction here. Masques are rarely understood.

Masque is a very intensive treatment. Intensive - because it has a few active ingredients in a very high concentration. Masque does not work on many subtle issues. That's why one or two masques are all you need (to contrast with serums – at least a dozen of advanced serums should be available!)

Masque works intensely and effectively on some "big" skin problems. We can view many other skincare products as helpers, relative to masque - on the one hand, they maintain long-term what masque achieves short-term, and on the other hand, they work on fine details which are not (and should not) be addressed by a masque.

At this stage, Skin Revitalizing Souffle becomes an integral part of your anti-aging care, as your weekly masque.

So, to reiterate, when you're 30, you add eye serum and masque. Masque is Skin Revitalizing Souffle, and, in a case of large pores, alternate it with Anti-Aging Pore Tightening Peel-off Masque. Also, upgrade your day and night creams. A few years later, to fight wrinkles, eye cream is added. Everything is clear. Now, what is the next point in time where I need to adjust my regimen?

When you're 35, the era of light-weight serums is over. Heavy-duty anti-aging is now appropriate. You have a full arsenal of serums at your disposal. Use them all. Alternate them. What's important to realize, you don't need to know what exactly each one is doing. It doesn't matter to you. Of course, when you have unique concerns, a skincare professional may advise you on a specific action, provided by a particular serum. Still, most women should alternate all the advanced anti-aging serums, using them one or two at a time, without thinking about mechanisms and specifics. Here you are:

    (p.m. only)
  • MATRIXYL 3000+COQ10 (am/pm) ()
  • RADIANCE SERUM (pm) ()
    (p.m. only)
    (p.m. only)
  • STEM CELL SERUM (pm) ()
    (p.m. only)
  • VITAMIN C+E SERUM (am/pm) ()

No matter how much you like a particular serum, use them all! Alternate them! The result will be profound.

Each serum does its job - but a different one, focusing on one specific mechanism of action. Alternating serums results in synergy, compounding anti-aging effect.

The serums are advanced. I can write a book about them. It may be interesting to understand what each serum does exactly, what mechanism it employes. However, for all practical purposes, this knowledge is irrelevant. Your skin benefits from each of them. You simply use them all by alternating them.

Let me ask you a question. What about toner? You've never mentioned it. Does toner have its place in an anti-aging routine?

The answer is yes, and no. Let me explain "no" first.

In the days of old, when cleansers and moisturizers weren't advanced, you needed a toner in between them. Toner took care of the remainder of the cleanser and prepared the skin for moisturizer. Our days, this is no longer necessary. What used to be taken care of by toner is already done by cleanser and moisturizer. That is to say, if they are of high quality.

However, I discovered an off-book usage of toner. Please note: I am not talking about toners in general. I am talking about my toner, as this is what I optimize it for. Are you ready to be surprised?

??? The most expensive product is a serum. Ideally, you use the serum twice a day. Also, preferably, you use different serums in the morning and at night. When you use
(which is specially formulated for this purpose), you will need considerably less serum because it slides and spreads easier on top of the toner. You "automatically" use a lesser amount with the same effect.
Wow! Is this a known usage of toner? Well, it's not an "official" usage of toner. I like to think about it as my invention, but the truth is, some women who use serums in combination with a toner, also came to the same conclusion through observation. You can't help but notice that serum lasts longer. Okay, let me try to summarize. We begin anti-aging at 27, by adding a light-weight serum and upgrading day and night creams. At 30, we add eye serum and masque. When we notice lines, we add eye cream. At 35, we're getting a whole array of "heavy-duty" anti-aging serums. We may add toner, which allows us to use serums more efficiently. Having all in place, we keep going. For how long? Until 120! After 35-40, the anti-aging regimen doesn't change unless there are some specific issues. Just remember - keep alternating serums. Could you please bring an example of the full anti-aging regimen. If possible, with approximate prices.

Sure. Here is an example of a complete regimen. Please note that you can cut it in half, but I'm bringing it in its ideal form, without any shortcuts, the way I would use it for myself.

  • Cleanser $25
  • Night serum $65
  • Day serum $65
  • Night cream $55
  • Day cream $55
  • Eye serum $65
  • Eye cream $50
  • Scrub $40
  • Masque $30

The total amount is $450.

And how long will it last? It may last a few months until you need to refill, but women have different habits when using skincare. There is no way to quantify it until you optimize it for yourself. Besides, different products have a different duration - some may last a month, some may last half a year. The last question for today. What's the very minimal approach to anti-aging?

There are two ingredients to the minimal approach.

First, a regular facial is a must. At least twice a year. The main benefit of a facial is that any skincare products work better. The skin becomes susceptible to skincare products. You can do it in the salon or by yourself, using DIY Kit -

Second, sunscreen. Sunlight is responsible for a good portion of aging, so just using sunscreen already presents a viable anti-aging approach, even if minimal. But make sure to pick good quality, natural one! For example,
Thank you, Dora, for sharing your professional secrets to approaching and overcoming aging skin!

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